Photography Info

[FAQ]                 [Equipment Info]                [About this web page]

FAQ

I'm always happy to answer any questions about equipment, particular pictures, and techniques via email. But sometimes my schedule and my trips don't allow me to reply right away (don't worry, even if it weeks later I'll reply to every email). So, to save time here are some of the more common questions I get:

    1. How do you get those colors in your pictures?
    2. Do you use filters to get those colors?
    3. What kind of camera do you use?
    4. What kind of film do you use? Where can I buy it?
    5. Do you have any calendars/postcards/prints available? Prints on display anywhere?

1. There are a couple of factors that produce the colors you see. First and foremost is the time of day I shoot. The majority of my best shots are taken during sunrise and sunset. There is just no substitute for the kind of light that can be witnessed during those "magic hours." By no means are you guaranteed to get a great shot if you wake up early for sunrise or sacrifice dinner to a sunset shoot. However, you do give yourself a better chance for something special if you consistently try to shoot during those times. Keep in mind that the best colors often occur in the 20-30 minutes before sunrise and and shortly after sunset. It's worth it to get up just a little bit earlier or stay a little bit later than everyone else.

Another contributing factor is my choice of film. Velvia (see my answer in #4 below for more details) is a fine grained and very saturated slide film that truly captures great color. And in situations where I use a long exposure (e.g., more than a few seconds) the color actually "collects" on the exposure.So, some of the color on the long-exposure shots pictures (e.g., the Waikiki shoreline at night or the SF bay sunset pictures) can be attributed to the film I use but most of the credit goes to the fantastic areas I have been fortunate enough to visit.

2. Aside from the skylight filters I keep on my lens for protection, I only use two other filters; a polarizer and a Singh-Ray two-stop neutral density filter. I'm sure most of you know a polarizer cuts glare and will darken blue skies. The neutral density filter has absolutely no effect on the color of a landscape. Instead the top half of the filter is darkened and the bottom half is clear. When placed in front of the lens the dark part of the filter will cut down, by two stops, the amount of light it lets through. So, for a typical sunset/sunrise situation in which the sky is several stops brighter than the foreground I'll use the filter to "even out" the exposure. That way I can get a more evenly exposed picture instead of settling for say, great sunset clouds and a black foreground. I don't suggest purchasing the widely available Cokin graduated filters since those aren't "true" graduated filters and are meant to actually affect the color of the scene.

[Sing-Ray actually markets a whole line of "Galen Rowell" ND filters, which is essentially what I have. I just happened to buy mine long before they were marketed under this name. If you have trouble finding ND filters you can always order the Singh-Ray ones directly from the Mountain Light website, http://www.mountainlight.com/filters.html]

I also recently came across an 81A warming filter among some old gear of mine. I'll be giving it a try out in situations where I need to correct an exposure that I know will go blue or cold (e.g., long exposure of rocks and river in shade).

3. I've always used Nikon equipment and my current camera is a F5. I've listed all of my equipment below.

4. I shoot Fuji Velvia film exclusively. It's a professional film (ISO 50) that is very saturated. That explains why a lot of my pictures have such intense colors. Also note that it is slide film. I still strongly believe slides are much better than negatives when it comes to color and sharpness. Print film is good in that it provides more exposure latitude and you can salvage a print from a poorly exposed shot. However, I just have not seen prints from negatives that can match prints from slides. Besides, slide look terrific when projected during a slide show.

Velvia is not cheap, though; about $9/roll in local stores (or $5.25/roll if you get it through mail order). I order all of my film (and equipment) from B&H Photo in New York. They are a very reputable and professional mail order business.

5. Currently I have original prints for sale. Sorry, no books or calendars are available at this time. You are more likely to run across my pictures on a CD cover or in a CD-ROM (e.g., Maptech's National Park Digital Guide). If you are in the Bay Area you can see my current exhibit at San Francisco Stereo and Theater Systems in Berkeley. They are located at 921 University Avenue (map).

 

Equipment Info

Most of the pictures on this site were taken with the "old equipment" listed below. While, like many photographers, I often want the latest and greatest gear I also know that it really won't affect the quality of pictures I take.

However, with that said, I do love the Nikon F5. The metering and autofocus are simply terrific. I rarely use the 8008s since the F5 has been so enjoyable to use. Yes, someone with an old manual 35mm camera could take the same pictures I do. But I find that the new gear makes the picture taking process a little easier. (Yes, that is how I justify my purchases. <grin>)

I should also point out that I did things a little backward in this situation. Generally, the best way to upgrade your equipment is to actually spend money on better lenses before you buy a better camera; the quality of the glass will have more of an effect on your pictures than the camera itself. Obviously, I purchased the camera first but I'll be purchasing some new lens over the next year or two (professional Nikon lens are rather costly!).

Current equipment: Nikon F5
  Nikon 70-210mm f/4-5.6
  Nikon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5D
  Nikon 24mm f2.8
  Gitzo Mountaineer 1227 tripod, Arca Swiss B1 ballhead (w/ Really Right Stuff QR plates)
"Old" equipment: Nikon 8008s
 

Nikon 35-70mm f/3.3-4
(A significant number of pictures on this site were taken with this particular lens.)

 

Bogen 2021 tripod with Bogen 3047 pan and tilt head


About that tripod...yes, the Gitzo tripod is one of the ultra-expensive carbon fiber tripods. (It's amazing how many other photographers come up to me when I'm shooting and ask if they can check it out.) I can honestly say the tripod/ballhead combination has been worth every penny I spent on it. It is so much lighter than my old Bogen that I can easily take it on longer hikes (with the ballhead attached it's about 4 1/2 pounds vs. the Bogen's 9+ pounds). I used to leave my Bogen behind on hikes that were longer than two or three miles. Now I can happily carry my tripod along on these trails. Since I try to use a tripod for most of my pictures that helps enormously.

 

About this web page

To get my pictures on this web page I have my slides scanned to Photo CD and then I open them up in Photoshop. Photo CD scans don't exactly match my slides; the colors are a bit muted and the images are not truly sharp. So I use the "Levels" command and "Unsharp mask" filter in Photoshop to try and get the scan to match my original slide. In some instances (e.g., pictures with a really dark foreground) I have trouble getting the online image to match the subtle color gradations in my original slide.

If you want to go the source I originally consulted, check out this page on Philip Greenspun's site, http://www.arsdigita.com/books/panda/images.html (a small warning -- the page may take a little while to load; once loaded, scroll down about half way to find the section on creating jpegs from PhotoCD images).

I started out using just BBEdit to write HTML. For awhile I used Claris Home Page when WSIWYG editors first arrived on the scene. These days I'm a big fan of Macromedia's Dreamweaver. I still use BBEdit to do fast edits and minor HTML cleanup but otherwise Dreamweaver does everything I could ask for. I use Photoshop to clean up my images and create headers. And I've just started using Macromedia's Fireworks to do the image exporting (it creates much smaller files than Photoshop and has a great exporting feature).

With one batch of pictures (Banff, Yellowstone 2) I ended up using a Nikon Coolscan. While the Coolscan is a terrific slide scanner I made the mistake of not taking the time to calibrate first. As a result I found the scans were not nearly as good as my PhotoCD scans. I've done my best to try and fix the scans but some of them aren't as accurate as I'd like them to be. Everything else one the site is a PhotoCD scan.


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Last Updated 11/11/01
All images © Kim Steinbacher.
Images may not be reproduced without permission.

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